I think this creates a denim that is interesting without having a gimmick, like some overly textured denim does. It’s just a nice, noticeable rough texture. Slubs and neps are present, but not overly so. There aren’t any massive slubs and it’s not overly neppy. The texture is present and noticeable, but not obnoxious. In fact, I would go so far as to say that it was more comfortable at the start than some stiffer 14oz fabrics I have worn. To me, it feels like I’m wearing 18oz denim rather than 21.5oz denim. This means that it is extremely easy to wear from the get go. The one-washed denim is actually pretty soft and flexible from the beginning and not crispy at all. The Oni x Tanuki jeans (lighting is a little dark and yellow in the inside shots)Īs an example of Oni’s famous secret denim, it is very loosely woven and has a fairly rough handfeel, while not being uncomfortable. I think it’s just restrained enough to not be classified in the category of gimmick denim (in my opinion). To be clear, I do not think this fabric is overly textured or gimmicky. I am not a fan of overly-textured, gimmicky denim and I am not a fan of heavyweight denim anymore. However, there are certain fabrics that are more modern that excite me and this is one of them. If you know me, you will know that for the last few years, I have been much more into repro and vintage-style denim than modern Japanese denim and I do not see that changing anytime soon. The real star of the show here is the fabric. These jeans certainly are not loose in their cut. If you are someone who is used to more skinny and tapered fits and would like to branch out to a more classic or generous cut that looks better with your boots, but don’t want to go all out with a full vintage style cut and are fairly short, then I think this would be a great option. I think the cut is overall good for me personally and is in between a more modern tapered fit and a true classic silhouette, which is probably what Tanuki was going for. I personally am actually pretty happy with how well these jeans fit and look on me, but I do not think the label is accurate. They work out to be a modern regular cut for me thanks to the hem, but if I were taller, these would actually be a pretty slim cut. This is why I really do not consider this pair of jeans to be a regular cut. I do not think that leg openings under 8” look good with any boots aside from sleek Chelsea boots. For me, this would be basically unwearable. Tanuki’s measurement for the leg opening of these jeans with the full inseam of almost 36” is 7.68”. Something that I need to clarify is that the only reason this cut works for me is because I am not very tall and have all my jeans hemmed to a 29” inseam. They technically fit over my engineers, but I do not think they look great with them. My only real issue with them is that the hem is too small for them to look good with my engineer boots. In fairness, I think the jeans look pretty good on me. The rise is a little lower than I would prefer and the hem is a little tighter than I would like, but given that Tanuki is a more modern denim company that is focused on people who tend to like more modern jeans and modern fits, this silhouette makes sense for them. These are called the regular fit and I suppose by modern standards, they are a fairly regular fit. Upper Thigh: 11.75” (this is an entire inch smaller than Tanuki’s measurement) The measurements are as follows for my one wash pair after about 10 wears: However, I do feel that these fit me pretty well overall. To explain just how poorly they ended up fitting, this new pair is in the same cut, are size 31, and the waist is also too big on these as well. I enjoyed the first pair of Tanuki jeans that I received, but I was never able to wear them too much because I was losing weight when I got them and the size 36 ended up becoming too large for me fairly quickly. My size 36 Tanuki Earth Denim jeans that I previously reviewed I actually did not expect them to ever do it, but they did finally offer their 21.5oz Oni x Tanuki fabric in their “regular” cut and they were kind enough to send me this pair to review as well. In 2019, Tanuki only made their Oni collaboration jeans in slimmer fits that I would not personally wear. The reason was that while I normally prefer more vintage-oriented and reproduction-style jeans right now, I do sometimes find myself tempted by more modern jeans with fabrics that push the boundaries rather than try to recapture old magic. When Tanuki sent me my first pair of jeans to review, I remember telling them that I really wanted them to make their Oni x Tanuki collaboration jeans in the regular fit.
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